Crack Cadpipe Tutorial

Pipe forums and other discussion groups are full of posts asking about crack repairs, especially to pipe bowls. Bowl cracks are generally the result of either accident, abuse or neglect – accidental drops or impacts can crack the wood, as can outright abuse like whacking the pipe against a hard surface to knock dottle out of the bowl. Cracks caused by neglect are usually due to a failure to maintain the level of cake (carbon buildup) inside the tobacco chamber. Cake forms on the walls of the chamber when the pipe is smoked. Tars, ash and carbon combine to form a dense, heat resistant layer that is actually beneficial to the briar pipe up to a point. The ideal cake thickness is about the thickness of a dime, at which point it adds a layer of insulation to the tobacco chamber that helps protect the briar walls from burnouts. Too much cake impinges on the smoking ability of the pipe and can pose a serious threat to its structural integrity.

This is because cake expands and contracts at a different rate than the briar of the chamber walls, and, if allowed to build up past the recommended point, can apply enough outward pressure on the tobacco chamber to crack the briar clean through. If the crack does not penetrate the chamber wall and/or is tightly clamped together, it is often possible to effect a long-lasting repair by sealing the crack with CA glue on the exterior of the bowl or JB Weld or basic pipe mud (cigar ash and water) on the interior of the tobacco chamber. If however, the crack goes all the way through the chamber wall and is mobile (ie the crack can be flexed open and closed), it may be necessary to add physical support to the repair to ensure a solid and permanent repair.

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Pipers are used to seeing shank bands of nickel, silver or even gold used to reinforce a crack in a pipe’s shank, but most folks don’t want to wrap a metal band around a pipe bowl. Here is where crack pinning comes into the pipe repair repertoire. Pinning is a method of crack repair shrouded in mystery and really only mentioned online in lists of repairs available at a few shops by skilled craftsmen. It does require a few specialized tools and a steady hand, but pinning should not, in my opinion, be regarded as outside the scope of a home repair or restoration. If you’re relatively handy and have a few dozen pipe restorations under your belt, I encourage you to push the boundaries a bit. If, on the other hand, you’re still nervous about performing a ream & clean, you’re probably not ready to tackle pinning. And as with all new repair skills, I think it wise to practice on a few junker pipes before aiming your drill at that vintage Peterson or Dunhill. Legenda o korkite chitatj song.

The patient for this pinning tutorial is a stummel made by GBD for Poor Richard’s, a tobacco shop in Bozeman, Montana. The original owner had neglected the cake buildup in his pipe to the point where the cake had literally split the bowl nearly in half, with cracks at the front and rear of the bowl. I could see the cracks opening and closing just by squeezing the bowl in my hand. I gathered up a few tools and supplies: • a 1.2mm micro drill bit • a variable speed electric hand drill • a length of 1.2mm brass rod • wire cutters • 220-grit sandpaper • CA glue • a marker To stop the cracks from spreading further, I first drilled “end cap” holes at the terminal ends of each crack, careful not to punch through the chamber walls. The front crack was simple enough, but the rear crack had “spidered”, spreading thin, running cracks in all directions across the briar. I tracked each spider crack and drilled an end cap hole for each one. To pin the cracks, it is necessary to drill pin shafts across the crack, through the curved walls of the bowl, without drilling into the chamber.